You won’t be tapping in the dark like so many other beginner builders and your first coil will be right as rain and ready to fire.

At one point or another, a serious vaper will try a hand at building their own coils – out of economic reasons, engineering prowess, or just pure fun. Coil building falls mostly within the purview of e-liquid vaporizers, as dry herb vaporizers and dab wax pens use a different form of heating element and do not get typically built or rebuilt by their users. It is not unheard of, however, for people to create or build and rebuild their own wax atomizers for many of the same reasons we’ve just listed. When that time comes for you, all you’ll need to do is pull up this post (because you’ve bookmarked it, right?) and you will have everything you need to start in one place: types of vape wires, countless coil builds, how to make your first vape coils, how to wick a coil, and so on. You won’t be tapping in the dark like so many other beginner builders and your first coil will be right as rain and ready to fire.

The first thing we need to discuss is vape wire. Both the type of the wire and the size matter a lot because of three reasons – flavor, vapor production, and ramp-up time. Each wire type (and there are five) will give you a slightly different flavor, as well as present different building challenges and opportunities. Knowing the different types of vape wires will help you find the perfect one that will match your vaping style and preferences.

When talking about vape wire size, vapers are referring to gauge, the actual diameter of the wire. Most popular gauges that vapers use are 32, 30, 28, 26, 24, and 22 – a majority of vape coils, even the most eccentric ones and used in the best vapes, can be built with these.



The important thing to remember here is that bigger the numerical value of the gauge, the thinner the wire. 28ga is larger in diameter than 30ga but smaller than 26ga. Also, an increase in diameter will result in a decrease in resistance, which means that the wire will take longer to heat up.

That heating period is called the ramp-up time and it’s pretty important – do you want to sit on that button for ages or do you want to be able to vape as soon as you press fire? Keep in mind that exotic vape coils (i.e. the ones that use more strands of wire) will have a pretty lengthy ramp-up time, but the same will also be true for low gauge (larger diameter) wires.

The first thing we need to discuss is vape wire. Both the type of the wire and the size matter a lot because of three reasons – flavor, vapor production, and ramp-up time. Each wire type (and there are five) will give you a slightly different flavor, as well as present different building challenges and opportunities. Knowing the different types of vape wires will help you find the perfect one that will match your vaping style and preferences.

When talking about vape wire size, vapers are referring to gauge, the actual diameter of the wire. Most popular gauges that vapers use are 32, 30, 28, 26, 24, and 22 – a majority of vape coils, even the most eccentric ones and used in the best vapes, can be built with these.

The important thing to remember here is that bigger the numerical value of the gauge, the thinner the wire. 28ga is larger in diameter than 30ga but smaller than 26ga. Also, an increase in diameter will result in a decrease in resistance, which means that the wire will take longer to heat up.

That heating period is called the ramp-up time and it’s pretty important – do you want to sit on that button for ages or do you want to be able to vape as soon as you press fire? Keep in mind that exotic vape coils (i.e. the ones that use more strands of wire) will have a pretty lengthy ramp-up time, but the same will also be true for low gauge (larger diameter) wires.

You know by now that there are two different modes of vaping – the wattage mode and the temperature control mode. Of course, it would be great if we could just use any old vape wire type for both of these modes. Unfortunately, that’s not how it goes. Here’s why: some wire types behave differently when at room temperature than when heated. For example, nickel wire can be 0.15-ohm when at room temperature, but the resistance will go way up when you fire it in your mod, and that can cause problems.

Temperature control vaping works differently than pure wattage vaping, using Temperature Coefficient of Resistance (TCR) of a given wire to regulate the current delivered to a coil. To use the same example, nickel behaves predictably with regards to temperature increase – the wire will always be a certain resistance at given temperatures. A TC mod will use that stable increase to determine the resistance as the coil heats up, lowering the current in order to keep the coil at a safe temperature.

There are five different types of vape wires generally used: Kanthal (FeCrAl), NiChrome, Stainless Steel, Nickel, and Titanium.

As you can tell, only one vape wire is versatile enough to be used in both vaping modes and that’s Stainless Steel. However, how do each one of these fare when it comes to flavor, cloud production, ramp up time, and ease of use? Let’s find out.

Kanthal wire is popular for a reason, and has been for nearly a decade. It’s easy to work with, has good resistance to oxidation, it’s not springy so it holds shape, and it’s cheap and easy to find. Kanthal especially good for single coil builds, which are not extravagant but get the job done when you’re not in the mood for something fancy and time-consuming. Add to that the fact that it holds shape well when rewicking (which means that you can use a Kanthal coil a good long time) and you have a fan-favorite.

Another fan-favorite for wattage vaping, NiChrome is an alloy composed of nickel and chromium. If you’re looking for fast ramp-up time, this is the wire you should look into. Other than that, it behaves similar to Kanthal wire – it’s easy to work with (slightly less spring then Kanthal) and holds shape well.

One thing to keep in mind when working with NiChrome is that it has a substantially lower melting point than Kanthal. Excessive dry burns can cause it to catch fire – and NiChrome fire is not something you want burning under your nose. That’s why you should slowly pulse a NiChrome coil at first. Also, some people suffer from a nickel allergy and should avoid using NiChrome wire.

NiChrome is a decent vape wire that experienced vapers use with ease. It’s a bit more difficult to find in local vape shops, but most online sellers will have it in stock. One thing to note – while NiChrome can technically be used in TC mode (and some mods boast that ability), its TCR is so low that even the most advanced chips struggle with it. So, if you read you can TC NiChrome with a specific mode, take that with a few grains of salt, at least for the time being.

The only vape wire that can pull a double duty (work in both wattage and TC modes) is the stainless steel wire. It’s perfect for vapers that haven’t made up their mind between TC and wattage mode or fail to check the modes they’re firing in on a regular basis. Stainless steel wire comes in various grades (410, 413, 316, 316L, 430, 304, and so on), which adds to the confusion a bit and makes it seem as if various vapers are either singing praises or talking down one and the same type of wire. Some grades of SS wire contain almost no nickel (SS is an alloy composed of various parts of chromium, nickel, and carbon), which is definitely a pro for people with nickel allergy.

Other positives include the fact that it can be easily dry burned (thanks to its high melting point), it’s relatively easy to work with, and it holds shape well. That said, some SS wire grades are more springy than others. SS 304, 430, and 316 grades are usually recommended, as they do TC very well, despite the fact that they have a relatively low TCR (temp/resistance change that can make it harder for mods to regulate).

Stainless steel offers a faster ramp-up time, similar to that of Kanthal, and it produces a crisp and clean flavor (which, as always, is subjective). One of the bigger downsides of certain SS grades is that they are not readily available in usable gauges.

Nickel, also referred to as Ni200 (pure nickel), is the first wire used for temperature control. It has a TCR of 0.006, making it fairly easy for most chips to read and regulate. Ni200 should only ever be used in TC mode because of concerns of overheating and melting. Namely, nickel wire can leach and, at high temperatures (above 600F), can produce graphite, which is why some vapers are concerned about getting graphite lungs (a debilitating condition sometimes seen in people overexposed to graphite, usually pencil factory workers).

That said, most of the bad rep the nickel wire is getting is blown out of proportion. When used in TC vaping, nickel is a perfectly safe wire. It’s biggest downsides are that it’s rather soft, so it’s difficult to work with and that it doesn’t hold shape all that well. Also, people who have a nickel allergy should avoid it.

On the plus side, nickel is relatively easy to find locally and it’s inexpensive. It’s ramp-up time is faster than that of Kanthal and, these days, it’s easy to find tempered nickel wire which is a lot easier to work with (similar to Kanthal A1) and holds shape well. One thing to keep in mind is that some people actually have a nickel allergy and can have a reaction to their coils. If you see any symptoms like a rash or irritated eyes or throat, then you may be allergic to your nickel coil. This is very rare, just something to be aware of.

The most controversial vape wire on this list is definitely the titanium wire. It’s a scary one because it does, in fact, release titanium dioxide (which is toxic) when heated over 1130F. However, it has a stable TCR and if you have a functioning TC mod, titanium dioxide poisoning is not something you should ever be concerned about. One piece of advice that’s often imparted about using Ti wire is to heat it until it’s shiny and has a thin oxide layer that simply sticks to the wire.

Most vapers using these vape wires report no problems while using them, so the panic surrounding them is definitely blown out of proportion. Titanium oxide is found in many everyday items like makeup and even some foods. It may or may not be hazardous when inhaled according to the research of titanium dioxide in the daily life, but the evidence doesn’t seem to indicate that any in gas form when vaping should cause a considerable problem.

Now that we’ve alleviated your fears, it’s time to move on to Ti wire pros. Titanium is very easy to work with, holds shape really well, and works exquisitely in TC mode. Also, most vapers using it note that it produces great flavor. Another upside to Ti wire is that it’s a lot stronger than Ni200, which allows you to use it longer without it breaking or bending out of shape.

You know by now that there are two different modes of vaping – the wattage mode and the temperature control mode. Of course, it would be great if we could just use any old vape wire type for both of these modes. Unfortunately, that’s not how it goes. Here’s why: some wire types behave differently when at room temperature than when heated. For example, nickel wire can be 0.15-ohm when at room temperature, but the resistance will go way up when you fire it in your mod, and that can cause problems.

Temperature control vaping works differently than pure wattage vaping, using Temperature Coefficient of Resistance (TCR) of a given wire to regulate the current delivered to a coil. To use the same example, nickel behaves predictably with regards to temperature increase – the wire will always be a certain resistance at given temperatures. A TC mod will use that stable increase to determine the resistance as the coil heats up, lowering the current in order to keep the coil at a safe temperature.

There are five different types of vape wires generally used: Kanthal (FeCrAl), NiChrome, Stainless Steel, Nickel, and Titanium.

As you can tell, only one vape wire is versatile enough to be used in both vaping modes and that’s Stainless Steel. However, how do each one of these fare when it comes to flavor, cloud production, ramp up time, and ease of use? Let’s find out.

Kanthal wire is popular for a reason, and has been for nearly a decade. It’s easy to work with, has good resistance to oxidation, it’s not springy so it holds shape, and it’s cheap and easy to find. Kanthal especially good for single coil builds, which are not extravagant but get the job done when you’re not in the mood for something fancy and time-consuming. Add to that the fact that it holds shape well when rewicking (which means that you can use a Kanthal coil a good long time) and you have a fan-favorite.

Another fan-favorite for wattage vaping, NiChrome is an alloy composed of nickel and chromium. If you’re looking for fast ramp-up time, this is the wire you should look into. Other than that, it behaves similar to Kanthal wire – it’s easy to work with (slightly less spring then Kanthal) and holds shape well.

One thing to keep in mind when working with NiChrome is that it has a substantially lower melting point than Kanthal. Excessive dry burns can cause it to catch fire – and NiChrome fire is not something you want burning under your nose. That’s why you should slowly pulse a NiChrome coil at first. Also, some people suffer from a nickel allergy and should avoid using NiChrome wire.

NiChrome is a decent vape wire that experienced vapers use with ease. It’s a bit more difficult to find in local vape shops, but most online sellers will have it in stock. One thing to note – while NiChrome can technically be used in TC mode (and some mods boast that ability), its TCR is so low that even the most advanced chips struggle with it. So, if you read you can TC NiChrome with a specific mode, take that with a few grains of salt, at least for the time being.

The only vape wire that can pull a double duty (work in both wattage and TC modes) is the stainless steel wire. It’s perfect for vapers that haven’t made up their mind between TC and wattage mode or fail to check the modes they’re firing in on a regular basis. Stainless steel wire comes in various grades (410, 413, 316, 316L, 430, 304, and so on), which adds to the confusion a bit and makes it seem as if various vapers are either singing praises or talking down one and the same type of wire. Some grades of SS wire contain almost no nickel (SS is an alloy composed of various parts of chromium, nickel, and carbon), which is definitely a pro for people with nickel allergy.

Other positives include the fact that it can be easily dry burned (thanks to its high melting point), it’s relatively easy to work with, and it holds shape well. That said, some SS wire grades are more springy than others. SS 304, 430, and 316 grades are usually recommended, as they do TC very well, despite the fact that they have a relatively low TCR (temp/resistance change that can make it harder for mods to regulate).

Stainless steel offers a faster ramp-up time, similar to that of Kanthal, and it produces a crisp and clean flavor (which, as always, is subjective). One of the bigger downsides of certain SS grades is that they are not readily available in usable gauges.

Nickel, also referred to as Ni200 (pure nickel), is the first wire used for temperature control. It has a TCR of 0.006, making it fairly easy for most chips to read and regulate. Ni200 should only ever be used in TC mode because of concerns of overheating and melting. Namely, nickel wire can leach and, at high temperatures (above 600F), can produce graphite, which is why some vapers are concerned about getting graphite lungs (a debilitating condition sometimes seen in people overexposed to graphite, usually pencil factory workers).

That said, most of the bad rep the nickel wire is getting is blown out of proportion. When used in TC vaping, nickel is a perfectly safe wire. It’s biggest downsides are that it’s rather soft, so it’s difficult to work with and that it doesn’t hold shape all that well. Also, people who have a nickel allergy should avoid it.

On the plus side, nickel is relatively easy to find locally and it’s inexpensive. It’s ramp-up time is faster than that of Kanthal and, these days, it’s easy to find tempered nickel wire which is a lot easier to work with (similar to Kanthal A1) and holds shape well. One thing to keep in mind is that some people actually have a nickel allergy and can have a reaction to their coils. If you see any symptoms like a rash or irritated eyes or throat, then you may be allergic to your nickel coil. This is very rare, just something to be aware of.

The most controversial vape wire on this list is definitely the titanium wire. It’s a scary one because it does, in fact, release titanium dioxide (which is toxic) when heated over 1130F. However, it has a stable TCR and if you have a functioning TC mod, titanium dioxide poisoning is not something you should ever be concerned about. One piece of advice that’s often imparted about using Ti wire is to heat it until it’s shiny and has a thin oxide layer that simply sticks to the wire.

Most vapers using these vape wires report no problems while using them, so the panic surrounding them is definitely blown out of proportion. Titanium oxide is found in many everyday items like makeup and even some foods. It may or may not be hazardous when inhaled according to the research of titanium dioxide in the daily life, but the evidence doesn’t seem to indicate that any in gas form when vaping should cause a considerable problem.

Now that we’ve alleviated your fears, it’s time to move on to Ti wire pros. Titanium is very easy to work with, holds shape really well, and works exquisitely in TC mode. Also, most vapers using it note that it produces great flavor. Another upside to Ti wire is that it’s a lot stronger than Ni200, which allows you to use it longer without it breaking or bending out of shape.

The Internet is full of great video tutorials that show, step-by-step, how to build your own vape coils, especially the simple ones made out of one strand of wire. Still, for clarity sake, let’s briefly touch upon what you’re going to need for coil building and how the process looks like. Before doing any build of your own, it is very important to get at least a basic understanding of Ohm’s Law. Building your own coil incorrectly can lead to injury, so study this principle until you understand it.

– An ohms reader – A coil maker (specialized tool for building vape coils) or a small screwdriver (2 mm) – Vape wire – A small screwdriver or an Allen key that fits the screws of your RDA – A lighter or a propane/butane torch – Nail clippers or wire cutters – Tweezers (ceramic tip) – Now you’re ready to build!

Before you start, it’s always a good idea to check just how many wraps your vape coil will need until you reach your target resistance. A coil wrapping calculator such as the one provided by steam-engine.org is great for that. In this particular case, to get a 1-ohm resistance from a single SS 316 coil with a 2 mm diameter, we will need eight full wraps. Ahead of coiling, make sure to oxidize your wire (heat it with a lighter or a torch until it glows) to make it less springy and easier to work with.

Wrapping the coil – cut 4 – 5 inches of wire and use your screwdriver to make wraps. Start near the shaft of the screwdriver so you can hold the wire in place with your thumb. Continue wrapping it around the screwdriver, making sure that your wraps are as close to one another without overlapping. Once you’ve reached 8 full wraps (the ends of the wire should face in the same direction), leave the coil on the screwdriver and proceed to the next step. Note that using a coil wrapping tool usually results in nicer looking coils and is faster, at least if you’re a beginner.

Installing the coil – unscrew the posts on your RDA carefully (not all the way out so you don’t lose them) and use the screwdriver to carefully position the ends of the coils into the post holes (one positive and one negative). Make sure that your coil is positioned at the center of your RDA deck. Now, tighten the post screws gently. Remove the screwdriver and trim the protruding legs as close to the posts as you can (nail clippers work like a charm here).

Test firing the coil – now that the coil is installed, it’s time to test fire it. Before you do that, make sure to check the resistance with your ohms reader. Simply screw your RDA onto it and it will display the firing resistance of the coil. Don’t be alarmed if the reading is off by 0.1-ohm up or down – that happens often. However, if the discrepancy is not within that range, check to see if the post screws are tight and if the coil is touching the posts or the deck. Adjusting those two things a bit will usually solve the problem.

After that, attach your RDA to a mod and briefly fire it until it glows. What you want to see is even heating, starting from the center of the coil and moving to the ends – you don’t want any hotspots that might cause the coil to snap in two. Use your tweezers to gently pinch the coil together and repeat until it heats evenly.

You’ve now successfully built a single, 1-ohm coil – congrats! However, this is just the beginning. While most vapers are happy with single coil builds, it’s important to note that there are many RDA coil types, ranging from simple to extravagant. For some of them, you will have to use several strands of different wires, as well as multiple tools, including even an electric drill. But – baby steps first! For a recap on how to build simple vape coils, check the video tutorial below.

Once your vape coil is done, it’s time to wick it. Beginner builders can have a problem with this, which is a real shame since without proper wicking, all that effort that went into building a coil is wasted.

First thing’s first – you will have to choose a wicking material. There are many options out there to work with, so choose the one you’re most comfortable with:

Now, an answer to how to wick a vape coil is simple – with patience and a bit of practice. For best results, follow the next few steps (we’re assuming you’re using cotton as it’s the most popular vape coil wicking material right now). Make sure to watch the video as well, as it demonstrates four different styles of vape wicking that might come in handy one day.

The Internet is full of great video tutorials that show, step-by-step, how to build your own vape coils, especially the simple ones made out of one strand of wire. Still, for clarity sake, let’s briefly touch upon what you’re going to need for coil building and how the process looks like. Before doing any build of your own, it is very important to get at least a basic understanding of Ohm’s Law. Building your own coil incorrectly can lead to injury, so study this principle until you understand it.

– An ohms reader – A coil maker (specialized tool for building vape coils) or a small screwdriver (2 mm) – Vape wire – A small screwdriver or an Allen key that fits the screws of your RDA – A lighter or a propane/butane torch – Nail clippers or wire cutters – Tweezers (ceramic tip) – Now you’re ready to build!

Before you start, it’s always a good idea to check just how many wraps your vape coil will need until you reach your target resistance. A coil wrapping calculator such as the one provided by steam-engine.org is great for that. In this particular case, to get a 1-ohm resistance from a single SS 316 coil with a 2 mm diameter, we will need eight full wraps. Ahead of coiling, make sure to oxidize your wire (heat it with a lighter or a torch until it glows) to make it less springy and easier to work with.

Wrapping the coil – cut 4 – 5 inches of wire and use your screwdriver to make wraps. Start near the shaft of the screwdriver so you can hold the wire in place with your thumb. Continue wrapping it around the screwdriver, making sure that your wraps are as close to one another without overlapping. Once you’ve reached 8 full wraps (the ends of the wire should face in the same direction), leave the coil on the screwdriver and proceed to the next step. Note that using a coil wrapping tool usually results in nicer looking coils and is faster, at least if you’re a beginner.

Installing the coil – unscrew the posts on your RDA carefully (not all the way out so you don’t lose them) and use the screwdriver to carefully position the ends of the coils into the post holes (one positive and one negative). Make sure that your coil is positioned at the center of your RDA deck. Now, tighten the post screws gently. Remove the screwdriver and trim the protruding legs as close to the posts as you can (nail clippers work like a charm here).

Test firing the coil – now that the coil is installed, it’s time to test fire it. Before you do that, make sure to check the resistance with your ohms reader. Simply screw your RDA onto it and it will display the firing resistance of the coil. Don’t be alarmed if the reading is off by 0.1-ohm up or down – that happens often. However, if the discrepancy is not within that range, check to see if the post screws are tight and if the coil is touching the posts or the deck. Adjusting those two things a bit will usually solve the problem.

After that, attach your RDA to a mod and briefly fire it until it glows. What you want to see is even heating, starting from the center of the coil and moving to the ends – you don’t want any hotspots that might cause the coil to snap in two. Use your tweezers to gently pinch the coil together and repeat until it heats evenly.

You’ve now successfully built a single, 1-ohm coil – congrats! However, this is just the beginning. While most vapers are happy with single coil builds, it’s important to note that there are many RDA coil types, ranging from simple to extravagant. For some of them, you will have to use several strands of different wires, as well as multiple tools, including even an electric drill. But – baby steps first! For a recap on how to build simple vape coils, check the video tutorial below.

Once your vape coil is done, it’s time to wick it. Beginner builders can have a problem with this, which is a real shame since without proper wicking, all that effort that went into building a coil is wasted.

First thing’s first – you will have to choose a wicking material. There are many options out there to work with, so choose the one you’re most comfortable with:

Now, an answer to how to wick a vape coil is simple – with patience and a bit of practice. For best results, follow the next few steps (we’re assuming you’re using cotton as it’s the most popular vape coil wicking material right now). Make sure to watch the video as well, as it demonstrates four different styles of vape wicking that might come in handy one day.

If you’re looking to blow huge clouds, a good understanding of vape coils will help you tremendously. There are several things that you need to take into consideration if you want to compete as a cloud-chaser:

If you’re looking to blow huge clouds, a good understanding of vape coils will help you tremendously. There are several things that you need to take into consideration if you want to compete as a cloud-chaser:

If you’re not into big clouds, then you’re probably a flavorista. That’s perfectly fine – there are some awesome coil builds aimed exclusively at maximizing the flavor output. You will need to keep a few things in mind, though:

It bears repeating that flavor is really something that’s very subjective. What tastes great to someone might taste stale or overpowering to another vaper. With that in mind, we proceeded to choose three top coils for flavors based on forum feedback from a number of vapers. Word of warning – all of these coils are difficult to make so don’t get discouraged if it takes a few tries.

If you’re not into big clouds, then you’re probably a flavorista. That’s perfectly fine – there are some awesome coil builds aimed exclusively at maximizing the flavor output. You will need to keep a few things in mind, though:

It bears repeating that flavor is really something that’s very subjective. What tastes great to someone might taste stale or overpowering to another vaper. With that in mind, we proceeded to choose three top coils for flavors based on forum feedback from a number of vapers. Word of warning – all of these coils are difficult to make so don’t get discouraged if it takes a few tries.

You probably thought those flavor coils were difficult to build, but wait until you see what we have in store for you here. These crazy coil builds will make you work your fingers until they’re bloody and raw. Sure, they look beautiful, but are they really worth the hassle? Judge for yourself.

You probably thought those flavor coils were difficult to build, but wait until you see what we have in store for you here. These crazy coil builds will make you work your fingers until they’re bloody and raw. Sure, they look beautiful, but are they really worth the hassle? Judge for yourself.

As you can see, finding your vape nirvana can be a challenging endeavor. With so many vape wires, gauges, and coil types out there, it can take quite some time to stumble on a setup that perfectly fits your vaping style. Still, it’s a fun process and, if you have the time, we’re sure you’ll enjoy exploring different flavor nuances that come with every new coil.

If you have any questions about vape wires or vape coils, make sure leave a comment below. And, if you decide to try your hand at building any of the crazy coils we’ve featured here, give us a shout – we’d love to see the end result.

As you can see, finding your vape nirvana can be a challenging endeavor. With so many vape wires, gauges, and coil types out there, it can take quite some time to stumble on a setup that perfectly fits your vaping style. Still, it’s a fun process and, if you have the time, we’re sure you’ll enjoy exploring different flavor nuances that come with every new coil.

If you have any questions about vape wires or vape coils, make sure leave a comment below. And, if you decide to try your hand at building any of the crazy coils we’ve featured here, give us a shout – we’d love to see the end result.

My way of understanding the significance of vaping came not only through the disruption of smoking but its effects on society as a whole. Now I bring people to vaping and bring vaping to people. I love using new gear, writing in-depth reviews and generally nerding out about vaping to like-minded people.

Superb info my friend im jumping from a t22e with t18 prism tank which is fab to a coolfire 4 and ares rta mtl for first time tomorrow could you advise on best coil size etc and also the best wicking used. Thanks its the euro version smaller glass height does that make difference to pull if you know what i mean sook. It was a review i seen a man slated the designer ares tank due to the amount of air holes on deck and the way are is drawn for a real mtl is to avoid this. Also cw4 only goes to 40w if you ran that across 1ohm coil what happens ? What are the dos and donts. I know you should start from low watts and increase but would the metal break coil snap?

I notice I can buy ni 80 in 100 ft for around $10 and for $25 is there a significant difference in quality between the 2?

i have the tarot nano and going to pair it with RTA Gemini of vaporesso,for coil will use clapton 24 or 26 ga, my question, do i need to test resistance and dpurchase oem meter or no need since i will be using the wire type recommended by vaporesso? many thanks for any advise.

Thank you very much for the useful informations I found here, I am not a fan of building my own coils, I prefer pre_made coils. My question for you is what best coils to buy, I am using serpent ssm and Pharaoh mini with mini sx g class mod and also Snowwolf Mfeng mod… Thanks

This article is very helpful IM NEW to vaping i started a month ago I quit smoking started out with smok prince stick, kept going through coils daily so decided to ijoy pd270 genie and a vandy vape tripple v2.. works great been playin with demon coils pack like 10 differnt types an 6 of each. Well ive only ran 2 coils at the most question is will i get better flavor with 2 coils versus 1 an whata best coil for flavor

I have a geekvape Athena single imr 18650 and need to know what my coil resistance range is . so I can make my own coils. appreciate your advice

In addition to the comments above, you mention “you’ll need more wraps to reach a low resistance”, more wraps increases the amount of wire and increases resistance. With a thicker wire, more wraps are needed to raise the resistance to a manageable level.

I already knew most of what was said in the article but for beginners this is an awesome read and it dies get quite technical

“The important thing to remember here is that bigger the numerical value of the gauge, the thinner the wire. 28 gauge wire is smaller in diameter than 30 gauge wire, but bigger than 26”

This part makes no sense. if the higher no. is smaller wire, then how can 28 be smaller than 30 and bigger than 26?

The important thing to remember here is that bigger the numerical value of the gauge, the thinner the wire. 28 gauge wire is smaller in diameter than 30 gauge wire, but bigger than 26.

The information on this site is not intended or implied to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. There is absolutely no assurance that any statement contained or cited in an article touching on medical matters is true, correct, precise, or up-to-date. The overwhelming majority of such articles are written, in part or in whole, by nonprofessionals.

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